Saturday, December 11, 2010

Mexico City and Teotihuacán

Mom and I got in to Mexico City on Thursday.  Boy was that an experience.  When I said I was worried about security... I think I had reason. From the bus terminal we got in a taxi (careful that it was actually a legit taxi since Jennifer and Alyssa warned us that there are quite a few that aren't and will just end up taking all your money instead).  Lucky for us, our taxi driver was a really good person and everything seemed completely normal until out of the blue the taxi driver leaned over and locked all the doors and told us to roll up all the windows. Bad part of town, apparently.  I was terrified. Plus, traffic was absolutely awful. Worse traffic than I've ever seen.
Preview of Mexico City traffic: green light and complete gridlock
Of course the traffic then made it pretty much impossible to get through any of the streets that would lead to our hotel, and rather than leave us on the street (where our taxi driver assured us we'd be mugged), our driver took us to a different hotel that he knew.  It was a little sketch at first, especially when he pulled into the underground garage instead of dropping us off out front on the street and then we found him creepily standing in the hotel lobby behind us while we were checking in, but a quick Google search when we got up to the room assured us the hotel was at least somewhat legit.

Anyways, after the hour and a half we spent in the taxi, Mom and I were both pretty frazzled. I personally was ready to pack up and head home, but since we were both actually starving we decided to go out and find something to eat.  We ended up in this Middle Eastern cafe a couple blocks from our hotel. Funny enough, the guy that owned it was from Uruguay and there was not a single person who worked there from the middle east but falafels were just too tempting to pass up.  The food was actually surprisingly good and the owner was a complete sweetheart, offering us anything and everything he had.  After lunch, we decided to see what was around.  Our hotel is about a block away from Alameda park and El Palacio de Bellas Artes.  The park is nothing super special but Bellas Artes is absolutely gorgeous from the outside.
In front of Bellas Artes
Also, on the way back we passed a gay friendly sex shop, a sleezy gentlemen's club, and CHINA TOWN! Haha. Sometimes, I could swear we were back in LA.

To be on the safe side, we signed up for a guided day tour on Friday.  The tour was half Mexico City and half Teotihuacán.  We started out at the Plaza de Tres Culturas: the Aztec ruins of Tlatelolco (apparently a huge marketplace back in the day), a 17th century Spanish cathedral, and a modern Mexican university.
Plaza de Tres Culturas
What I thought was interesting was that when the Spaniards conquered the area, they broke down the structures of Tlatelolco and used the stones to build their cathedral. Then, with the cathedral, they attempted to convert the people living there to Catholicism. From there we went on to see the Basílica de Guadalupe.  There's no way I would have ever chosen to see this on my own but I'm really glad we had the opportunity to do it.  The basílica is actually made up of 3 different churches, all dedicated to the Virgen de Guadalupe.  The newest of the 3 was built in the 1970s.  Apparently we chose the right time to visit the basílica because it was packed with people, each group of people sporting a different color/outfit.  As our guide explained, every year in the two weeks before Christmas people travel from all over Mexico to light a torch with the fire from this church and then they carry that flame back to their hometowns.  Later while we were on the freeway, we actually saw some of these groups running/biking along the road, carrying the lit torch.

The last stop on the tour was Teotihuacán, the famous ancient Aztec ruins just outside the city.  The pyramids were really pretty amazing.  So much larger than the ones we saw in Monte Albán.  Mom and I definitely got our workout climbing to the top of the Pirámide del Sol.
Top of Pirámide del Sol
Also, after we saw the pyramids, our guide took us to the newer part of the site which included the city's temple and the walls that used to be the houses for the most important leaders of the town.  It was such an incredible feeling walking through the rooms people used to eat and sleep in. You could kind of imagine what the village used to look like.  After the ruins, we finished the day off with some yummy fajitas at a restaurant just outside of Teotihuacán.
FAJITAS!
I think that might actually be the first time I've eaten fajitas here in Mexico.

Today, Mom and I were feeling a little more adventurous and decided to do some exploring on our own.  This morning we took the metro to Frida Kahlo's old house.  It was the place she grew up and then lived with Diego until she died.  Recently, they've redone it into a museum to display some of her artwork, along with a bit of Diego's. The artwork was neat but I was even more impressed with the house which was absolutely huge and had a gorgeous garden out back.  I imagine it was the perfect place for two artists to live.

After that, we stopped in a cafe for coffee and a light lunch.  The guy working there must have thought my Spanish was hilarious cause every time I opened my mouth, he was so obviously fighting a smile.  Oh well. From there, following Dana's advice, we took the metro to Chapultepec, walked through the park past about a million and one street vendors until we eventually ended up at the Anthropology Museum.  The museum was one of the coolest I've ever seen.  It ranks right up there with Body Worlds, probably the only other museum I've ever really appreciated in my life.  There were all kinds of artifacts from all different indigenous tribes, all over Mexico.  And some of the artifacts were 2 or 3 times bigger than me!  (How they got them to the museum, I have no clue.)  My favorite rooms were Teotihuacán and Oaxaca, mostly because I could relate to them.
Museo Nacional de Antropologia
For dinner tonight, Mom and I went to a restaurant called Girasoles just behind Bellas Artes.  It was recommended to us by our tour guide yesterday so we thought we'd give it a shot.  I had some great arrachera with beans and guacamole, and Mom ordered a chicken with a creamy nut/chile sauce which was also excellent.  For dessert, we ordered flan drenched in cajeta (Mexican caramel) and blackberry sauce. YUM.  Sadly, when the bill came we didn't even have enough money to pay for it.  We've been so careful not to end up with a surplus of pesos at the end of our trip that we were actually short.  Thank goodness for Visa! ;)

Tomorrow is our very last day in Mexico.  I wish I could say I'm sad to leave but after 3 days of this ridiculously smoggy/borderline extremely unsafe city, I'm really looking forward to going home.  Plus, I kinda miss Cosmo (mi perro) and Frankie (mi pez). Oh yeah, and maybe mi hermano. But only a little. Hehe. USA in 24 hours!!!

Wednesday, December 8, 2010

San Miguel de Allende

So, San Miguel de Allende wasn't anything like what we expected. We got here this morning by bus and kind of just spent the day wandering around.  I think Mom and I both expected it to be more like a mini-America since there are apparently so many Americans that choose this city to retire in. I don't quite understand why. It's pretty and quaint but definitely nothing special. I think I'll want a little more interesting place to retire in. The church in the center of town was pretty cool though.  It reminded me a little of the Disneyland castle.
Parroquia de San Miguel
For dinner tonight, one of the guys who works at our hotel recommended a place called La Bugambilia because it is "la más tradicional."  Well, the place served far from traditional Mexican food but I had an excellent American-ish chicken fillet in a tangy orange sauce.  Also, it was the first time I'd seen real wheat bread since I left! Yummy yummy.  Mom ordered a margarita which then had to be followed by a decaf coffee and flan before we could walk home. Such a lightweight. I love her. Haha.
Tomorrow morning we're off to Mexico City. I'm a tad bit nervous security wise, but I'm really looking forward to seeing the Anthropology Museum and Teotihuacan. :)

Tuesday, December 7, 2010

El Fin y Guanajuato

Our program officially ended last Friday. It felt so good to finally turn all those papers and exams in but it was definitely a little bittersweet, knowing that everyone was leaving the next day. I'm really going to miss everyone.
The group in front of Santo Domingo <3
I have to say this quarter has been one of the best, most educational and truly life changing experiences I’ve ever had.  There's so much I'm going to take away from it and so much I think I can apply to my life in general.  Also, I've finally decided for sure I want to go to med school so I guess that means I'll be studying for the MCAT this summer. (Yipee!)

Right now, I'm with Mom in Guanajuato.  She got in on Saturday morning to Oaxaca. We spent a couple days there just hanging out and doing some shopping.  I took her to El Tule for lunch, which I think she really liked. How could you not? Literally best tlayudas ever. Also, for the very first time I saw the inside of Santo Domingo.  You'd have thought sometime in the last 3 months I would've been curious enough to venture in, but I guess I sort of failed on that front.  As it turns out, the inside is really really gorgeous and definitely worth the time. I'll have to post pics later. On Sunday we had a nice afternoon coffee/snack with Michelle, Jane, and Jane's parents who were also still hanging around in Oaxaca.  
Jane's parents, Mom, Me, Michelle, Jane at Nuevo Mundo
I know we're all going back to Davis in winter but it was actually really hard to say goodbye to them.

Yesterday, Mom and I took a plane to Guanajuato.  Mom had a little panic attack in the Mexico City airport when they said our plane had been canceled but as it turned out there was another flight leaving at the exact same time so no big. We've been here in Guanajuato for a day and a half now.  The city is so different from Oaxaca.  It's much smaller and more cutesy, less street vendors, and the people that live here are definitely a lot better off. Also, it's a lot younger crowd than in Oaxaca, since the university is here.  Yesterday we didn't do too much except walk around and get food.  I was a little disappointed to find that my delicious Oaxacan black beans had been substituted for only mediocre Guanajuato-an(?) pinto beans but I did thoroughly enjoy my enchiladas. ;)

Today, we did a little more exploring. There's a street here called Callejón del Beso which is so narrow the balconies on either side of the street are practically touching. 
Callejón del Beso
As legend has it, two young lovers (the girl from a wealthy family and the boy a poor miner) would exchange kisses in secret across these balconies.  Unfortunately, the girl's father, who did not approve of the boy, found out about their romance and as our guide book put it, "the couple met a tragic end."  I guess a little like a Mexican Romeo and Juliet? 

We also went to go see El Museo de Las Momias.  (Yes, that would be momias as in mummies!) 
¡¡Momias!!
 I thought it was really neat but Mom had to go back and wait for me at the beginning. I don't think it was her thing. Haha.  After that we grabbed lunch in the square across from Teatro Júarez.  Tortas with french fries.  It was a little americanized but the french fries were gladly welcomed on my end. I honestly cannot wait to get home and indulge in real American food!

We finished off the afternoon, visiting Diego Rivera's old home.  This was the house he lived in until he was 6, before his family moved to Mexico City. The first floor was a display of some of the rooms, furnished typical for the time period. The second and third floor housed a bunch of Rivera's works.  I'm not normally big on art museums but I thought it was kind of cool.  I had no idea he had so many different styles. Each painting looked so different from the next; it was hard to believe the same artist did all of them.

Tomorrow morning we leave for San Miguel de Allende. I hope it's warmer there. It's absolutely freezing here. (Okay, maybe not freezing but compared to Oaxaca, it sure feels like it.) Also, our hot water in this hotel works for literally no more than 5 minutes before it shuts off and gets all cold. So unpleasant but I think I'm going to attempt to wash my hair tonight. Eek. Wish me luck!